IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE RAISING YOUR BIRDS ORGANICALLY, THIS IS THE BEST ORGANIC MEDICATION SCHEDULE YOU SHOULD FOLLOW TO GET THE BEST RESULTS
.
Have tried my best to teach organic poultry farming and how to prepare different organic solutions including how to make different organic Boosters, Organic Multivitamins, Organic ANTIBIOTICS and how to treat and prevent coccidiosis, CRD, cough,sneezing and fowl cholera. So that’s the reason why have Also come up with the best schedule you should follow if you are going to be raising your birds organically.
DAY 1 – GINGER & GARLIC + ORGANIC MULTIVITAMIN
DAY 2- LAB( ALSO KNOWN AS LACTOBACILUS).
DAY 3- PREPARED TAGIRI.
DAY 4 – ANTIBIOTICS FROM VET SHOP.
DAY 5 – GINGER + GARLIC + ORGANIC MULTIVITAMINS.
DAY 6 – WATER.
DAY 7 – ANTIBIOTICS FROM VET SHOP.
DAY 8- GINGER AND GARLIC.
DAY 9- LAB( LACTOBACILUS.).
DAY 10- WATER
DAY 11 -12 – BITTERLEAF AND SCENTLEAF AND CAYENNE PEPPER.
DAY 13-15 – TAGIRI FOR 1 DAY, GINGER AND GARLIC FOR 2DAYS
DAY 16 – WATER.
DAY 17 – ORGANIC MULTIVITAMINS
DAY 18-22. – GINGER + LIME + GARLIC.
DAY 19 – 23 BITTERLEAF AND SCENTLEAF AND NEEM LEAVES WITH CAYENNE PEPPER.
Day 24 TUMERIC OR ANY OTHER FEED ADDICTIVES.
DAY 25-27 ORGANIC MULTIVITAMINS
DAY 28 -30 GINGER + LIME + GARLIC + CAYENNE PEPPER.
DAY 31- 34 BITTERLEAF AND SCENTLEAF AND NEEM LEAVES WITH CAYENNE PEPPER.
DAY 35 WATER
DAY 36 -38 LACTOBACILUS ALSO KNOWN AS LAB.
DAY 39 – 41 TAGIRI.
DAY 42 – 45- ORGANIC MULTIVITAMINS .
DAY 46 – 48 – TAGIRI.
DAY 49-50 BITTERLEAF AND SCENTLEAF AND NEEM LEAVES WITH CAYENNE PEPPER.
Cannibalism usually occurs when the birds are stressed by a poor management practice. Once becoming stressed, one bird begins picking the feathers, comb, toes or vent of another bird. Once an open wound or blood is visible on the bird, the vicious habit of cannibalism can spread rapidly through the entire flock. If you notice the problem soon after it begins, cannibalism can be held in check. However, if the problem is allowed to get out of hand it can be very costly. Cannibalism will lower the bird’s value due to torn and damaged flesh, poor feathering and can result in high death losses. Once this habit gets out of hand it is difficult to eliminate.
Since there are numerous reasons for outbreaks of cannibalism, it is important that cannibalism control be a part of your management program.
Cannibalism is usually caused by one or more of these conditions
1. Overcrowding
Large breeds of chickens should be allowed:
1/4 sq. ft./bird for first 2 weeks
3/4 sq. ft./bird for 3-8 weeks
1.5 sq. ft./bird from 8 to 16 weeks of age
2 sq. ft./bird from 16 weeks on chickens require half the space as large chickens.
With gamebirds, double the above recommendations. With pheasants, allow 25 to 30 sq. ft./bird after 12 weeks of age or use pick prevention devices like plastic peepers or blinders.
2. Excessive heat
When the birds become uncomfortably hot they can become extremely cannibalistic. Be sure to adjust the brooding temperature as the young fowl get older. Brood young fowl at 95°F. for the first week and then decrease the temperature 5°F. per week, until you reach 70°F. or the outside temperature. The temperature should be measured at the height of the birds back directly under the heat source. Do not heat the entire brooding facility to the recommended temperature. Not decreasing the brooding temperature is a common mistake that leads to problems like cannibalism.
3. Excessive light
Extremely bright light or excessively long periods of light will cause birds to become hostile toward one another. Never use white light bulbs larger than 40 watts to brood fowl. If larger bulbs are required for heat, use red or infra-red bulbs. When raising birds 12 weeks of age or older, use 15 or 25 watt bulbs above feeding and watering areas. Never light fowl more than 16 hours per day. Constant light can be stressful to the birds.
4. Absence of feed or water or a shortage of feeder and waterer space
If the birds have to fight for food and water, or if the birds are always hungry they will increase pecking. Be sure that birds have free access to water and feed at all times. The pecking order determines which birds get to eat and when. When you have inadequate feeder space birds at the lower end of the pecking order may never be allowed to eat.
5. Unbalanced diets
Extremely high energy and low fiber diets cause the birds to be extra active and aggressive. Feed lacking protein and other nutrients, particularly Methionine, will also cause birds to pick feathers. Make sure you feed a diet balanced appropriately for the age and types of fowl you are raising.
6. Mixing of different types, sizes, and colors of fowl
Mixing different ages and sizes of fowl or fowl with different traits promote pecking by disrupting the flock’s normal pecking order. Never brood different species of fowl together in the same pen. Don’t brood feathered leg fowl, crested fowl or bearded fowl with fowl without these traits. Curiosity can also start pecking. Toe pecking in the first few weeks is often started due to curiosity of the different colors or traits.
7. Abrupt changes in environment or management practices
If you plan to move young birds to a new location, it is best to move some of their feeders and waterers with them in order to help them adapt. When you change over to larger feeders and waterers it is helpful to leave the smaller equipment in the pen for a few days to help during the change.
8. Brightly lit nests or shortage of nesting boxes
Don’t place bright lights near the nesting areas. Also, allow 1 nest for every 5 hens. Vent pecking by layers is also a common problem.
9. Allowing cripples, injured or dead birds to remain in a flock
Fowl will pick on crippled or dead birds in their pens because of the social order and curiosity. Once pecking starts it can quickly develop into a vicious habit.
10. Slow feathering birds are most prone to cannibalism
Take extra precautions with slow feathering birds. Most cannibalism occurs during father growth in young fowl. Birds with slow feathering have immature tender feathers exposed for longer periods of time leaving them open to damage from pecking. Don’t raise slow feathering birds with other fowl.
11. Introducing new birds to the flock
Anytime you add or remove birds from a flock you disrupt the pecking order of the flock. It is best to introduce any new birds into your pen by splitting the pen with a wire wall for at least a week to help the birds to get to know each other. Also, adding the birds to the perch at night can help. Always supervise new introductions to the flock and intervene if the pecking gets out of control and birds are getting hurt. It may take a week or more for flock to re-establish the new pecking order.
12. Prolapse Pecking
Prolapse can occur in very young or fat laying flocks. Prolapse is when the uterus stretches and tears and takes longer to properly return into the body cavity after the egg is laid. This is most common in young flocks that start laying too soon (prior to 20 weeks of age or in fat layers. When the uterus is exposed for a period of time other birds will see it and pick at it out of curiosity. Once they pick at the uterus it bleeds and the picking quick progresses to cannibalism. If you start seeing blood streaks on the shell surface your flock may be prone to prolapse. Properly managing how you bring your birds into production and proper feeding practices can prevent this problem. Fat birds will need to be put on a low energy diet.
Additional preventive measures include
Allow the birds to use up their energy in an enclosed outside run. This will keep the birds busy and allow them to peck greens, ground and insects instead of other birds.
Give the birds a large handful of fresh greens like clover grass or weeds, each day. This increases the fiber in the birds’ diet. A high fiber diet will keep the birds’ gizzard full and keeps the birds more content. Small parts of baled green leafy hay will also give the birds something to pick at.
Use of mechanical devices like plastic peepers or blinders in aggressive birds like gamebirds is advisable.
Placing colored or shiny items for the birds to pick at and occupy their time can draw attention away from other birds. Hanging shine cans just above eye level can serve as a toy.
Finally, beak trimming is used in problem flocks. Trim the beak by removing about 1/3 of the tip of the beak providing a square tip. This makes it difficult for the birds to harm each other. However, beak trimming should be done by someone experienced in proper trimming.
Treatment for a cannibalism outbreak
Since cannibalism can be caused by several conditions, you may not be able to determine the exact cause of the problem. However, stress no matter how slight, is usually the main factor.
Try to correct any practices which may have lead to cannibalism.
Darkening the facilities by using red bulbs.
Remove any badly injured birds.
Applying an “anti-peck” ointment on any damaged birds usually stops pecking.
Lower the pen temperature a bit if possible.
Don’t take chances! Make cannibalism control part of your management program and you will save a great deal of time and money.
Cannibalism is usually caused by one or more of these conditions
1. Overcrowding
Large breeds of chickens should be allowed:
1/4 sq. ft./bird for first 2 weeks
3/4 sq. ft./bird for 3-8 weeks
1.5 sq. ft./bird from 8 to 16 weeks of age
2 sq. ft./bird from 16 weeks on chickens require half the space as large chickens.
With gamebirds, double the above recommendations. With pheasants, allow 25 to 30 sq. ft./bird after 12 weeks of age or use pick prevention devices like plastic peepers or blinders.
2. Excessive heat
When the birds become uncomfortably hot they can become extremely cannibalistic. Be sure to adjust the brooding temperature as the young fowl get older. Brood young fowl at 95°F. for the first week and then decrease the temperature 5°F. per week, until you reach 70°F. or the outside temperature. The temperature should be measured at the height of the birds back directly under the heat source. Do not heat the entire brooding facility to the recommended temperature. Not decreasing the brooding temperature is a common mistake that leads to problems like cannibalism.
3. Excessive light
Extremely bright light or excessively long periods of light will cause birds to become hostile toward one another. Never use white light bulbs larger than 40 watts to brood fowl. If larger bulbs are required for heat, use red or infra-red bulbs. When raising birds 12 weeks of age or older, use 15 or 25 watt bulbs above feeding and watering areas. Never light fowl more than 16 hours per day. Constant light can be stressful to the birds.
4. Absence of feed or water or a shortage of feeder and waterer space
If the birds have to fight for food and water, or if the birds are always hungry they will increase pecking. Be sure that birds have free access to water and feed at all times. The pecking order determines which birds get to eat and when. When you have inadequate feeder space birds at the lower end of the pecking order may never be allowed to eat.
5. Unbalanced diets
Extremely high energy and low fiber diets cause the birds to be extra active and aggressive. Feed lacking protein and other nutrients, particularly Methionine, will also cause birds to pick feathers. Make sure you feed a diet balanced appropriately for the age and types of fowl you are raising.
6. Mixing of different types, sizes, and colors of fowl
Mixing different ages and sizes of fowl or fowl with different traits promote pecking by disrupting the flock’s normal pecking order. Never brood different species of fowl together in the same pen. Don’t brood feathered leg fowl, crested fowl or bearded fowl with fowl without these traits. Curiosity can also start pecking. Toe pecking in the first few weeks is often started due to curiosity of the different colors or traits.
7. Abrupt changes in environment or management practices
If you plan to move young birds to a new location, it is best to move some of their feeders and waterers with them in order to help them adapt. When you change over to larger feeders and waterers it is helpful to leave the smaller equipment in the pen for a few days to help during the change.
8. Brightly lit nests or shortage of nesting boxes
Don’t place bright lights near the nesting areas. Also, allow 1 nest for every 5 hens. Vent pecking by layers is also a common problem.
9. Allowing cripples, injured or dead birds to remain in a flock
Fowl will pick on crippled or dead birds in their pens because of the social order and curiosity. Once pecking starts it can quickly develop into a vicious habit.
10. Slow feathering birds are most prone to cannibalism
Take extra precautions with slow feathering birds. Most cannibalism occurs during father growth in young fowl. Birds with slow feathering have immature tender feathers exposed for longer periods of time leaving them open to damage from pecking. Don’t raise slow feathering birds with other fowl.
11. Introducing new birds to the flock
Anytime you add or remove birds from a flock you disrupt the pecking order of the flock. It is best to introduce any new birds into your pen by splitting the pen with a wire wall for at least a week to help the birds to get to know each other. Also, adding the birds to the perch at night can help. Always supervise new introductions to the flock and intervene if the pecking gets out of control and birds are getting hurt. It may take a week or more for flock to re-establish the new pecking order.
12. Prolapse Pecking
Prolapse can occur in very young or fat laying flocks. Prolapse is when the uterus stretches and tears and takes longer to properly return into the body cavity after the egg is laid. This is most common in young flocks that start laying too soon (prior to 20 weeks of age or in fat layers. When the uterus is exposed for a period of time other birds will see it and pick at it out of curiosity. Once they pick at the uterus it bleeds and the picking quick progresses to cannibalism. If you start seeing blood streaks on the shell surface your flock may be prone to prolapse. Properly managing how you bring your birds into production and proper feeding practices can prevent this problem. Fat birds will need to be put on a low energy diet.
Poultry Management
Water: The Most Important Nutrient – Poultry should have free access to clean, fresh water at all times. During brooding, clean and disinfect water fountains daily. When starting day-old birds or after moving or transporting birds, give access to water before placing feed in the feeders. Water consumption will be 3 times as high when temperatures reach 100° F as compared to 50° F weather.
Grit: When birds have access to coarse litter or whole grains, an insoluble grit should be fed. Limit intake of grit to 1 pound per 100 pounds of feed or 2 pounds per 100 birds per week. Grit can be blended with their regular ration or offered free choice in a separate feeder. But when offering a commercial prepared feed, grit is NOT needed (the feed is already ground).
Do not allow feeders to run empty or stale feed to accumulate. Never feed any feedstuffs that are moldy, musty or suspect in any way.
What You Need To Start Them Right
Chick Starter:
Leghorns: 280 pounds per 100 chicks
Broilers: 250 pounds per 100 chicks
Chick Feeders: minimum of one foot long per 15 chicks
Water Fountains: one gallon capacity per 25 chicks or ¼ inch trough space per chick.
Heat Lamp or Brooder Stove: 75 birds per heat lamp with a minimum of two lamps.
Litter: About four inches of pine shavings or sawdust.
Chick Guard: 18 to 24 inch cardboard to keep chicks close to heat, feed and water for first 10 days.
Air out house: let house lie empty and air out for two weeks before bringing in chicks. Fumigate if possible.
Buy chicks from a reputable hatchery. The source of chicks is very important to assure disease-free stock. The hatchery should be participating in the National Poultry Improvement Plan to minimize disease problems.
During the First 12 weeks
Where chicks are brooded under a hot water or hot water system, each chick should be allowed a minimum of seven square inches of brooder space under the hover. When chicks are brooded under individual brooder units, allow a maximum of 500 chicks per hover.
In cold weather, use a solid chick guard around the hover to keep chicks from straying and to prevent floor drafts. In warm weather, a wire guard may be used. Place guard two to three feet from edge of hover. Gradually expand it and remove at the end of one week.
All-night lights, equivalent to 15 watts per 200 square feet of floor space, will help prevent piling.
Minimum room temperature should be 65 degrees F for the first two weeks. However, supplemental heat should be provided when chicks arrive. Temperature under the hover should be 90 degrees F. Decrease heat as chicks get older.
Provide one square foot of floor space per chick, one day old through the 12th week.
Allow 180 linear inches of hopper feeder space per 100 chicks, one day old through the 12th week (15 large hanging feeders or 20 small hanging feeders per thousand chicks).
Provide the following drinking space: first four days (per two brooders), eight one-gallon founts, plus one automatic waterer. Five days through 12 weeks: 36 linear inches of water trough space for each 100 birds.
Use dim lights for one to three weeks only.
Keep litter clean and dry to promote healthy environment for chicks.
Feed Management
Water – The Most Important Nutrient – Poultry should have free access to clean, fresh water at all times. During brooding, clean and disinfect water fountains daily. When starting day-old birds or after moving or transporting birds, give access to water before placing feed in the feeders. Water consumption will be 3 times as high when temperatures reach 100° F as compared to 50° F weather.
Grit – When birds have access to coarse litter or whole grains, an insoluble grit should be fed. Limit intake of grit to 1 pound per 100 pounds of feed or 2 pounds per 100 birds per week. Grit can be blended with their regular ration or offered free choice in a separate feeder. But when offering a commercial prepared feed, grit is NOT needed (the feed is already ground).
Do not allow feeders to run empty or stale feed to accumulate. Never feed any feedstuffs that are moldy, musty or suspect in any way.
Chickens
Egg Production Breeds – Several Leghorn white egg strains are available. Leghorns start laying eggs at about 20 weeks, at which time they weigh about 3 pounds. With proper management, they will lay 18 to 22 dozen eggs per bird during the first year of production.
The brown egg strains will weigh about 4 pounds by 20 weeks of age. They come in a variety of feather color patterns and will generally produce fewer eggs while requiring more feed than the Leghorn breeds. They are generally classified as dual purpose breeds with the cockerels used for meat production and the hens for egg production.
Meat Production Breeds – The commercial broiler strains of Cornish and White Rock breeding are the most economical strains for meat production. They may be purchased as straight run or on a sexed basis. The males can be caponized (castrated) at 3 to 5 weeks of age to produce a more tasty variety of meat.
What Is Chicken Grit?
Grit refers to a finely ground hard substance that is given to chickens. There are two types of poultry grit: oystershell grit and flint grit. Oystershell grit is a type of calcium that helps make eggshells stronger. Insoluble grit, also known as flint grit, helps chickens with digestion.
most economical time to slaughter is when the birds are at the fryer stage. The amount of feed consumed per pound of gain increases as the bird gets older.
Back To Top
Preparing for Bird Arrival
Remove all old litter.
Clean and disinfect house and equipment using an approved disinfectant.
Fumigate if possible.
Let house lie empty and air out for two weeks.
Place about four inches of clean, dry litter such as pine shavings or sawdust.
Use chick guards to keep birds close to heat, feed and water. Prevent drafts and piling for the first 10 days.
Bring house up to brooding temperature one day before delivery.
Fill waterers 4 hours before arrival. Allow birds to drink for 3 to 4 hours before giving first feed. This will help prevent dehydration.
Back To Top
Culling
It is always a good idea to cull and destroy sick or lame birds. These birds are generally inefficient because they do not grow or produce eggs while continuing to eat feed.
By the end of the first production cycle (10 to 12 months of lay), many laying hens will naturally quit producing eggs and molt. These hens could be removed and slaughtered for meat, if desired. Birds in laying condition will have a large, bright, waxy-appearing comb, moist vent and flexible keel and pubic bones that are wide apart.
Non-layers will have a dull, small comb and dry vent with rigid keel. The distance between the pubic bones will be only 1 or 2 finger widths, while 3 or 4 fingers will easily fit between these bones of a bird in laying condition.
Leghorn hens may be molted (rested) after their first production cycle. After 4 to 8 weeks of resting, the hens will return to production at a production rate somewhat less than their first cycle.
Back To Top
Brooding
Brooder stoves or heat lamps can be utilized. Place a maximum of 350 birds per stove or 75 birds per heat lamp. Use a minimum of 2 heat lamps in case one burns out. Adjust the temperature to 90° at the chick level. Reduce temperature 5° per week to a minimum of 60° F. The best indication of a comfortable temperature is when the chicks are spread evenly within the chick guard. Remove wet areas around waterers and feeders daily to maintain good litter condition and to keep leg problems and disease conditions at a minimum. Brooder litter paper should be used when starting chicks. It makes it easier for the chicks to get around and reduces the chicks’ tendency to eat the litter, causing starve-outs.
Back To Top
Light Management
The effect of light on growth and production is a very important factor. Chicks should be placed on 24 hours of light for the first week. Broilers and capons can then be allowed to follow the natural day length as long as there is at least 14 hours of light provided.
Day length control is very critical for attaining maximum egg production. A basic rule is: Never decrease day length for laying hens.
General guidelines for total of natural and artificial light could be as follows:
First week after chicks are housed – 24 hours of light.
2 to 6 weeks – 16 hours of light.
6 to 12 weeks – 13 hours of light.
12 to 18 weeks – 10 hours of light.
At 18 weeks, increase day length one half hour per week until 15 hours of day length is reached. Laying hens must have a minimum of 8 continuous hours of rest (black-out) per 24-hour period.
Use one 60-watt bulb for laying hens or very young birds. One 25-watt bulb (per 200 square feet of floor space) is adequate for growing pullets, broilers and capons.
Back To Top
Temperature and Ventilation
The optimum temperature range for birds over 4 weeks of age is 65°-75° F. As temperature gets above or below this range, the production, growth rate or efficiency can suffer. To control temperature, ammonia, humidity, dust, disease and litter condition, fresh air movement is essential. Approximately 5 to 10 times as much ventilation is needed in warm temperature conditions as in cold conditions.
Back To Top
Egg Storage and Cleaning
Eggs should be gathered 2 or 3 times per day. Wash, dry and cool them as quickly as possible to maintain freshness. The wash water should be warmer than the temperature of the eggs. Use detergents designed for washing eggs. Store eggs at approximately 50° F and 70 percent relative humidity.
Back To Top
Roosting and Nest Space
Roosts may be used for growing or mature birds, although they are not essential. Allow 6 inches of roost space per bird. To keep eggs clean, nests must be provided for laying hens. Allow 1 nest for every 4 hens. To prevent floor eggs, put nests in darkened area of the house. Keep the nests filled with adequate amounts of litter to prevent egg breakage and dirty eggs.